Painting Splinter camouflage on 15mm figures can be quite challenging but, with a little practice, is not nearly as difficult as it would appear. The way I paint it has been fairly similar for a few years now: the design painted on General von Sauken is very similar to that on the Volksgrenadiers, for example. I say "Heer" Splinter ("Splinter A") as I tend to paint the Luftwaffe variant ("Splinter B") a little differently. But that is just a personal choice: the pattern below is perfectly fine for Luftwaffe Splinter since on a 15mm figure we are not really painting actual Splinter camouflage, but rather a representation thereof.
|Note the slightly different patterns: Luftwaffe on left, Heer on right.|
A simple way to paint basic Splinter camouflage is shown by Evan Allen on the main Battlefront/Flames of War site. This was the method I used some years back on my old Luftwaffe Jaeger Platoon. It is fairly easy to do and does a pretty good job of representing the camouflage. Of course, I've improved a little since then, so I started looking for something a bit more involved. The Battlefront guide in the Art of War II (p. 27) had a decent guide, and the way I do it is pretty much based on that.
I'll be using (mostly) the Panzer Aces Splinter colours as they are nice and bright, something needed on small 15mm models: darker colours stand out less, making the camouflage that much more difficult to see. Dodgy pics as standard...
I start with a coat of P3 Cryx Bane Highlight as a shadow for the Splinter Base. A mix of VPA Splinter Base + a little Field Grey works well too. (As an alternate, as I used on the Volksgrenadiers, is a shadow of VMC Khaki and a base colour of VMC Stone Grey: this is a somewhat "warmer" base, but the end result is also very good.)
After that, I block-paint with VPA Splinter Base. I tend to leave only a few shadow lines; leaving too many will make them visible later which will add more "noise" to the pattern. Just a few lines for definition works fine.
After the base colour is done, I paint in brown camo lines with the VPA Splinter Brown colour. VMC German Camo Medium Brown is very similar and I have used this as well many times. Since we are not painting the actual thing, I try to suggest what the camouflage should look like. Keeping the lines/edges as straight as possible helps in this regard. I also initially paint over the belt, etc. trying to keep the pattern "coherent": the belt and other equipment details are picked out later.
That being done, I add in the green splotches with VPA Splinter Green. Placing these so they look "correct" is still something I have difficulty with: looking at the real thing only helps so much. Again, I try to keep the edges of the patches as straight as possible, and not to add too much green.
|Green patches added|
Lastly, I paint fine lines (aka "Splinters") in groups of 2-3 lines on areas where the base colour is showing through. I used Panzer Aces 348 "Splinter Strips" here, but any sort of dark-to-medium green-grey will work just as well since the lines are very fine. This is not strictly necessary, and of course is well out of scale, but I like the effect. Remember to keep the lines in one direction, as on the real thing.
|Cleaned up with black|
After that, the rest of the figure was completed.
For figures wearing helmet covers, the process is much the same. The helmet covers were made from several pieces of camouflaged fabric sewn together, but I tend to ignore this fact in this scale and just paint. However, I add the splinter lines at different angles to suggest different pieces, plus it just looks better.
|Helmet cover, made from several pieces sewn together|
|Splinter Camo on a helmet cover|
|Hermann Göring Panzergrenadier, tutorial figure, Panzergrenadier, Fallschirmjäger|
On the figures above, you can see the difference between the Splinter Base used on the two figures on the left and the warmer tones of VMC Stone Grey (over Khaki) used on the right. Both variations can be used in the same force without difficulty. Adding darker base colours can also add variation, although from 3 feet away the difference will be minimal.
Great tutorial. Camo on 15mm is very challenging and not something I have mastered. Your work here makes me wish my vision was sharper, my hand steadier and my patience infinite!ReplyDelete
Fantastic tutorial! I now imagine many folks will now spend hours trying to do the same thing and still wonder why it doesn't look as good as yours. The thing is you forgot to mention is exceptional talent is also required.:-)ReplyDelete
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing!ReplyDelete
Thank you so much. Fantastic tutorial. I have a question, that you might can help me with. On your Herman G. test miniature you have painted the shoulder straps. But the camouflage uniform looks more like a kind of pull over on the uniform - so my question - were there camouflage uniforms with shoulder straps?ReplyDelete
The HG are wearing the Luftwaffe camo "smock" (I forget the correct term). his is a different garment from the Heer and SS versions. I simply did a few figures (like this one) with Waffenfarbe painted in, but for the most part on HG and FJ they appear to have just been camo material.
Thanks. Please continue your painting. Your blog is a place for inspirationDelete
@ Lee: I hear you, maybe I need a "list of things to paint before my eyes go bad"?
@ Christopher: Cheers, patience and a good brush helps. I have no talent whatsoever ;)
Wow CdlT, they look amazing.ReplyDelete
What sort of brush are you using?
I'm guessing a W&N series 7 size 0 perhaps?
Exactly that, although a size 1 or 2 works fine too; they have the added benefit of holding more paint which is useful at times.Delete
I use a size 1, but I can't do what you manage to achieve with it.Delete
Lots of use here, thanks!ReplyDelete
Excellent tutorial, thanks for sharingReplyDelete
Ufff, awesome!!!!. THank you very much for share it!ReplyDelete
Thanks for the tutorial. Really helpfulReplyDelete
I tried this today. I can't believe the brush control you have to get those straight and fine lines. Thanks for posting the tutorial! I'll post a link once I have my first test models finished.ReplyDelete