Half a 25-pounder battery, these ones with the one-piece resin bases. Which I have learned to hate. Terrible things, BF should simply have made the scenic "dug-in" bits in metal and sold them separately, much easier.
Sure: the bases are resin and often warped slightly, some seriously (one of these was, though you can't really tell from the pictures). The "slots" to place figures in reduces the possible combinations of gun crew positions unless you reduce the gunners' bases. Also, these slots need MORE work to hide the figures' bases than my usual basing method.
Lastly, the base plate of the 25-pounder being molded with the base means it is difficult to attached the rest of the gun (wheels especially) discreetly: blobs of glue under the wheels and on the baseplate are not desirable. With my usual method, the entire artillery piece is built, painted, etc. and then glued in place under the base plate and the end of the gun trail, then glued directly onto a sand base. The entire construction done my way is far more robust and less visible.
The version with resin bases is more work and less securely fixed. Metal scenic pieces would in my opinion have been far better.
I find those holes for the figures often need to be widened and also a few small peices of card to get the hole not as deep. They do impact dramatically on what figures have to go where. I totally agree.
I think it would have been much simpler for BF to simply make, say, a dozen or so different scenic dug-in pieces cast in metal which could simply be glued in front of a gun position. They could be included in the box sets similar to the "stowage" included in some vehicle box sets, one per gun. This would avoided the resin bases and reduced the cost of the box sets which, at £42 currently, is simply not worth it compared to blisters in my opinion since the "extra value" is not really valuable.
Thanks Ritter. Yes the grass is Noch (spring or summer, can't remember exactly which).
No applicator. I spread diluted wood glue/pva and water (about 70/30) with an old brush over the base, then immerse in the static grass. Unlike others who dip then remove, I leave the base covered overnight, then brush off the excess only after the glue has dried completely. I find this gives a better and denser "coverage" most of the time. Raised or sloped areas might need a second application to cover properly as thee glue tends to run, though this is more of an issue on terrain pieces rather than small figure bases.
If it's not too much trouble, would you be able to go over your paint scheme/method for the guns. Your infantry painting posts are a huge help and following them has brought my minis to a whole other level.
It is basically the same process as the infantry: darker colour for shadow, block -paint with base colour, highlight, then use something lighter for an extreme highlight on edges of gun-shields, rivets, and so on.
No, the SCC15 mix is GREEN, 50/50 VMC 924 Russian Uniform and VMC 888 Olive Grey. The colour can be seen on the helmets in this group.
The guns were painted VMC Burnt Umber for shadow, then English Uniform highlighted heavily with Khaki Grey. The edge highlights are Vallejo Green Ochre, confined to the top edges of the gun shield and rivets, etc.
Beautiful work. Your figures look immaculate, almost too clean!
ReplyDeleteI like the staff team dioramma with the parked up motorbike.
Lovely. Everything looks amazingly smooth and rounded. Very appealing. Good job, sir.
ReplyDeleteAnother amazing looking unit. Crisp and sharp photos as well. Care to expand on your dislike for the resin bases?
ReplyDeleteCheers
Sure: the bases are resin and often warped slightly, some seriously (one of these was, though you can't really tell from the pictures). The "slots" to place figures in reduces the possible combinations of gun crew positions unless you reduce the gunners' bases. Also, these slots need MORE work to hide the figures' bases than my usual basing method.
ReplyDeleteLastly, the base plate of the 25-pounder being molded with the base means it is difficult to attached the rest of the gun (wheels especially) discreetly: blobs of glue under the wheels and on the baseplate are not desirable. With my usual method, the entire artillery piece is built, painted, etc. and then glued in place under the base plate and the end of the gun trail, then glued directly onto a sand base. The entire construction done my way is far more robust and less visible.
The version with resin bases is more work and less securely fixed. Metal scenic pieces would in my opinion have been far better.
CdlT
I find those holes for the figures often need to be widened and also a few small peices of card to get the hole not as deep. They do impact dramatically on what figures have to go where. I totally agree.
ReplyDeleteI think it would have been much simpler for BF to simply make, say, a dozen or so different scenic dug-in pieces cast in metal which could simply be glued in front of a gun position. They could be included in the box sets similar to the "stowage" included in some vehicle box sets, one per gun. This would avoided the resin bases and reduced the cost of the box sets which, at £42 currently, is simply not worth it compared to blisters in my opinion since the "extra value" is not really valuable.
ReplyDeleteCheers for the comments guys.
CdlT
Always a pleasure to see youir new stuff! Your minis are flawless!
ReplyDeleteI really like the natural look of your grass. Do you use an applicator?
Im guessing its Noch brand?
Thanks Ritter. Yes the grass is Noch (spring or summer, can't remember exactly which).
ReplyDeleteNo applicator. I spread diluted wood glue/pva and water (about 70/30) with an old brush over the base, then immerse in the static grass. Unlike others who dip then remove, I leave the base covered overnight, then brush off the excess only after the glue has dried completely. I find this gives a better and denser "coverage" most of the time. Raised or sloped areas might need a second application to cover properly as thee glue tends to run, though this is more of an issue on terrain pieces rather than small figure bases.
CdlT
If it's not too much trouble, would you be able to go over your paint scheme/method for the guns. Your infantry painting posts are a huge help and following them has brought my minis to a whole other level.
ReplyDeleteHi Greg,
ReplyDeleteIt is basically the same process as the infantry: darker colour for shadow, block -paint with base colour, highlight, then use something lighter for an extreme highlight on edges of gun-shields, rivets, and so on.
CdlT
Did you use your SCC15 colour for the base? What paints did you use for the highlight?
DeleteThanks a ton for your response
No, the SCC15 mix is GREEN, 50/50 VMC 924 Russian Uniform and VMC 888 Olive Grey. The colour can be seen on the helmets in this group.
DeleteThe guns were painted VMC Burnt Umber for shadow, then English Uniform highlighted heavily with Khaki Grey. The edge highlights are Vallejo Green Ochre, confined to the top edges of the gun shield and rivets, etc.
CdlT
Wow, there's some awesome paintjob in here.
ReplyDeleteCheers
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Ivan
http://solovievblog.blogspot.com/